How to enjoy your protective style without the repercussion of traction alopecia
Protective hairstyles have always been an integral part of my life. Born in Nigeria, I attended Greater Tomorrow school until the age of eight. The school mandated that girls either wear their hair in protective styles or keep it cut short. Consequently, my mother would braid my hair into intricate cornrow designs each week, which I wore with pride.
When my family emigrated to the United States, my mother continued to braid my hair in beautiful cornrows. Although these styles were aesthetically pleasing, they were often tight and painful in the initial days following the braiding session. I vividly recall the bumps that would form around my hairline, indicating that the style was too tight and potentially leading to hair loss. At the time, I believed this discomfort was a normal part of the process, encapsulated by the saying, “beauty is pain.”
This mindset persisted until my college years when I faced the early stages of traction alopecia. For those unfamiliar, traction alopecia is a common form of hair loss caused by excessive tension on the hair strands from tight cornrows, box braids, microbraids, dreadlocks, weaves, tight ponytails, or hair accessories. One day, as I examined my reflection, I noticed the raised bumps around my hairline and realized I needed to act swiftly. I immediately loosened the hairstyle, and fortunately, the hair strands around my edges did not fall out.
Traction alopecia is one of the few types of hair loss that can be prevented and reversed if detected early. It progresses through two stages: the acute stage and the late stage (also known as chronic traction alopecia). During the acute stage, pimple-like lesions and hair casts (white or brown cylinders) may appear around the hair strands close to the scalp where there is significant tension. Although some hair loss may occur, it can be mitigated if addressed promptly. By loosening the protective style or rotating hairstyles with different parting patterns every six to eight weeks, hair loss can be reversed at this stage. Additionally, some individuals have experienced hair regrowth when topical minoxidil is applied to the affected areas.
However, if no action is taken and the tight protective style or accessory continues to be worn, acute traction alopecia can progress to chronic traction alopecia. Chronic traction alopecia is characterized by an irreversible loss of hair follicles in the areas where the hair strands were pulled. At this point, hair growth cannot be stimulated, and surgical interventions such as follicular unit transplantation may be necessary.
If you or someone you know is experiencing hair loss due to protective styles or accessories, I recommend paying close attention to the warning signs mentioned above. If you are wearing box braids or cornrows, it would be wise to loosen these braids slightly. For those who prefer tight ponytails, I advise wearing them more loosely to avoid traction alopecia not only at the front but also at the back and sides of the hair. Lastly, if you wear tight-fitting headgear such as turbans or helmets, opt for ones with a looser fit.
If you would like to learn more about addressing your specific hair issue or share your own hair story, please feel free to visit Nywele Advanced Hair Solutions or send an email to joy.okwemba@nyweleadvancedhairsolutions.com.