Are Hair Relaxers That Bad?

Are you currently using hair relaxer creams or considering them, and wondering about their potential risks? The answer is nuanced. While it’s true that relaxers, including no-lye relaxers, can cause hair damage, they can also be beneficial if applied correctly. Hair relaxers may contain chemicals such as phthalates, phenols, and parabens known to be endocrine disruptors and may be associated with infertility. Despite these concerns, I used hair relaxers regularly for over 20 years, and my hair thrived, growing nearly to my waist despite annual trims.

You might wonder how this was possible. Before attributing it entirely to genetics, let me share some key principles that helped me benefit from chemical relaxers while minimizing their harmful effects:

Principle #1: Follow Instructions Carefully. Always adhere to the instructions provided in each relaxer kit. Do not skip steps, even if you think you know how to apply it. Never leave the relaxer on your hair longer than recommended, as this increases the risk of overprocessing and severe damage. If your scalp starts burning during application, rinse out the relaxer immediately with cool water.

Principle #2: Maintain a Regular Moisturizing Routine. Initially, I moisturized my hair every other day, then every three days as I found products that kept my hair hydrated for longer periods. This routine provided the necessary moisture and protein to keep my hair healthy. To begin, I apply or spray a segment of my hair with a store-bought or homemade detangler to relax the strand. Following this, I apply my hair cream, typically mixed with coconut or olive oil, before combing through that segment.

Principle #3: Treat Every Strand of Hair as Precious. Instead of combing my hair roughly when dry, I ensure it is first dampened using the aforementioned technique. Once the hair strands within a segment are relaxed, I use one hand to hold the portion of hair close to the scalp and gently glide my comb through the hair with the other hand. By adopting this method, I experienced minimal hair breakage and significant length retention.

Principle #4: Consider Low-Tension Protective Styles. While some individuals with very long hair prefer to leave it down, I opted for the opposite. I kept my hair in either a single braid, two loose French braids, or loose box braids (without added hair extensions). I observed that these low-tension protective styles were crucial in retaining moisture and significantly reducing breakage. High-tension styles, which are very tight and pull on the scalp, may last longer but greatly increase the risk of hair loss.

Hair relaxers have garnered a negative reputation, often justifiably so. However, by applying the above principles, I firmly believe you can benefit from hair relaxers without suffering extreme hair damage. For years, I used relaxers from brands such as Optimum, Dark & Lovely, and Organic Root Stimulator, achieving excellent results. Some relaxers cause less hair damage than others, so it is important to identify which products work best for you if you choose to use one.

Now that I’ve highlighted some methods for properly using hair relaxers, please check out my next blog where I share why I decided to go natural and discontinue all relaxer use.